The Trail / Among the Yanktons

Among the Yanktons

Nebraska and South Dakota

The stretch of the Missouri River along the present-day border between Nebraska and South Dakota was a flurry of activity. In just three days, a detachment visits the “Mountain of Little People,” today’s Spirit Mound, Patrick Gass is promoted to sergeant, and they first encounter the Yankton Sioux. They look for a volcano and Lewis becomes ill while testing one of the minerals he collected. At present Old Baldy, the expedition has it first encounter with prairie dogs.

    The Barge

    Barge, keelboat, or just 'the boat'?

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    Meriwether Lewis listed a “Keeled Boat” in his pre-expedition shopping list, but after he finally got it, he and the other journalists of the Corps of Discovery simply called it “the boat” (190 times) or, less often, “the barge” (32 times).

    Missouri River Hazards

    The travails of river travel

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    “So far, we have experienced more difficulty from the navigation of the Missouri, than danger from the Savages. The difficulties which oppose themselves to the navigation of this immence river, arise from the rapidity of it’s current, it’s falling banks, sandbars, and timber”

    NE Nebraska Minerals

    'Blue Earth,' 'Clift of White' and 'Burning Bluffs'

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    The Missouri River exposed rock formations that were geologically diverse, distinctly colored, rich in mineral content, and in some places, dramatically distinguished by steaming and smoking hot earth that beckoned to be investigated.

    Synopsis Part 1

    Washington City to Fort Mandan

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    The Corps of Discovery, as it would be called, or the “corps of volunteers for North Western Discovery,” as Lewis put it, epitomized the rising glory of the United States—its sense of limitless possibilities and unparalleled opportunities.

    Elk Point

    Names

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    In the vicinity of Elk Point, South Dakota, the captains found a variety of unfamiliar minerals, including what Clark believed were arsenic and cobalt. “Capt. Lewis in proveing the quality of those minerals was near poisoning himself by the fumes & taste.”

    August 24, 1804

    Bluffs on fire

    Goat Island, NE The expedition passes a burning bluff that some call the Ionia Volcano. York kills an elk, and the captains express curiosity about a small mound in the prairie, present Spirit Mound, that the Indians fear.

    The Vermillion River

    The stream near Spirit Mound

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    The Corps left the white pirogue at the mouth of this stream and followed it part of the way to the storied Spirit Mound. During the years between the day the Corps passed it and today, its mouth has migrated about 2.5 miles southeast.

    La Véndrye’s Golden Sands

    His visit to Spirit Mound

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    La Vérendrye’s 1728 name for Spirit Mound contains several puzzling statements. Pako’s reference to that “very fine gold-coloured sand,” suggests the “little mountain” was located in a fabulous land, an Eldorado, of precious natural riches.

    Spirit Mound

    An elevation of devilish spirits

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    The visit to this prairie hill was among the more bizarre sidelights of the whole expedition, but evidently it was not entirely unexpected. Seventy-six years earlier, explorer Pierre La Véndrye called the place the “Dwelling of the Spirits.”

    Spirit Mound by Air

    "Unusual spirits"

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    On 25 August 1804, obedient to Jefferson’s instruction to observe Indians traditions, monuments and landmarks, Lewis and Clark went inland to visit a “conic form” rising from the plain.

    August 26, 1804

    Promoting Private Gass

    Opposite Bow Creek, NE Patrick Gass is promoted to sergeant. Camp is across from an old Omaha village.

    Yankton by Air

    Peace parley

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    Here they “formed a camp in a Butifull Plain,” erected a flagpole, ran up their large flag, and settled in to wait for the Sioux, whom they had invited to meet with them. On August 30, seventy-five Sioux men of the Yankton tribe ceremoniously entered the expedition’s camp, eager to parley.

    August 29, 1804

    Seventy Yanktons arrive

    Yankton, SD Clark delegates numerous tasks to the men and works on his Indian speech. Pryor and ‘Old’ Dorion bring in a large delegation of Yankton Sioux, and Pryor tells about his time at their village.

    Sandbar Hazards

    Knotty problem

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    The task of piloting the expedition’s boats efficiently through the Missouri’s windings and blind leads was the principal responsibility of Pierre Cruzatte who, as a riverman, earned the respect and confidence of every member of the party.

    September 4, 1804

    Shannon still missing

    Niobrara River, NE The barge’s sail is hoisted in a strong wind and the mast breaks. After eight miles, the expedition stops at the Niobrara River to explore, hunt, and look for signs of George Shannon who has been missing several days.

    The Niobrara River

    Rushing river

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    “We hoisted Sail,” wrote Ordway, and “ran verry fast a Short time. Broke our mast.” The party “came to” on the west side of the Niobrara. There the men made a new mast from the trunk of a tall, sturdy red cedar, which apparently lasted at least until they reached the Mandan villages.

    September 5, 1804

    No Preserve Island

    No Preserve Island, NE-SD After making 13¾ miles up the Missouri, the boats stop early at No Preserve Island. There, they make a new cedar mast for the barge. Lewis describes the bull snake and adds two plant specimens to his collection.

    September 6, 1804

    Towing the barge

    Near Greenwood, SD The barge hits several sandbars as the men tow it eight more miles up the Missouri. Colter returns without having found Shannon, and Pedro Vial reaches the Pawnees without having arrested Lewis.

    September 7, 1804

    Prairie dog town

    Old Baldy [The Tower], SD The expedition encounters its first village of prairie dogs. They pour barrels of water down burrow holes eventually catching one as a specimen. Hunter George Shannon is still missing.

Discover More

  • The Lewis and Clark Expedition: Day by Day by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2018). The story in prose, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals: An American Epic of Discovery (abridged) by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2003). Selected journal excerpts, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals. by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 1983–2001). The complete story in 13 volumes.