Primary Topics / The Trail

The Trail

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Starting with its genesis in Jefferson’s Monticello, Lewis’s training and preparations in Philadelphia, and the barge‘s (called the ‘boat’ or ‘barge’ but never the ‘keelboat’) excursion down the Ohio River, the route they took, often called the Lewis and Clark Trail, crosses the continent and weaves an epic tale of western exploration treasured by many today.

    Lewis & Clark by Air

    by ,

    Aerial photographer Jim Wark and scholar Joseph A. Mussulman offer a fascinating new perspective on the Corps of Discovery’s historic journey. From Monticello in the east to Fort Clatsop on the Pacific Ocean, the entire 2004 book is provided online with updates by Mussulman.

     

    Eastern Beginnings

    Washington City and Philadelphia

    Before leaving for Pittsburgh, Lewis traveled between Jefferson’s home Monticello, Washington City, Harpers Ferry, and Philadelphia as plans coalesced and preparations ensued.

     

    Down the Ohio

    Pittsburgh to Fort Massac

    On 31 August 1803, Lewis and his crew embarked from Pittsburgh and headed down the Ohio River.

     

    Up the Mississippi

    Cairo to Cahokia, Illinois

    On 20 November 1803, after nearly a week encamped at the mouth of the Ohio, the new recruits would be tested while propelling the large boat—known today as the keelboat—against Mississippi River current. They safely navigated around the Grand Tower, but learned at Fort Kaskaskia that the Spanish would not allow them past St. Louis.

     

    Winter at St. Louis

    December 1803 to May 1804

    During the winter of 1803–04, everything had to come together: the enlisted men, the boat men, the provisions, and the transfer of Louisiana to the United States.

     

    Starting Up the Missouri

    St. Louis to the Kansas River

    Leaving St. Louis, on 14 May 1804, the flotilla crosses the present state of Missouri to arrive at the mouth of the Kansas River.

     

    Past the Omahas

    Nebraska and Iowa

    Following the Missouri River along the present-day Nebraska-Iowa border, the captains pay their respects to the late Omaha chief, Blackbird and conduct their first two Indian councils. Sergeant Charles Floyd becomes ill and passes away.

     

    Among the Yanktons

    Nebraska and South Dakota

    The stretch of the Missouri River along the present-day border between Nebraska and South Dakota was a flurry of activity. In just three days, a detachment visits the “Mountain of Little People,” today’s Spirit Mound, Patrick Gass is promoted to sergeant, and they first encounter the Yankton Sioux.

     

    Crossing the Lakotas

    North and South Dakota

    The expedition meets the Lakota Sioux, and the encounter goes badly for both. They reach the lower Knife River Indian Villages, council with the Mandans and Hidatsas, and find a site to spend the winter.

     

    Winter at Fort Mandan

    November 1804 to April 1805

    At the Knife River Villages, the winter of 1804–05 is brutally cold but the nearby Mandans and Hidatsas prove to be warm hosts. The captains hire trader Toussaint Charbonneau as an interpreter on the condition that he bring his Shoshone wife, Sacagawea. On 11 February, she gives birth to the couple’s first son, Jean Baptiste.

     

    Along the Northern Reach

    North Dakota and Eastern Montana

    The Missouri River’s northernmost reach crosses western North Dakota and eastern and central Montana. The region may be barren, but geological riches include the Fort Union Formation and the “seens of visionary inchantment” in the Upper Missouri River Breaks.

     

    Portaging the Falls

    The Great Falls of the Missouri

    Lewis finds that the Falls of the Missouri are “truly magnifficent and sublimely grand” and Clark finds that the portage around them would be long and difficult. Sacagawea becomes “gravely ill.” Before continuing, they must build two new canoes to replace the cached pirogues.

     

    Gates of the Rockies

    End of the Missouri

    As the Missouri River flows south along the eastern edges of the Rocky Mountains, Clark lists each river constriction as a gate. Throughout this course, the river forks two times with each fork one-third the size than previous. The men are encouraged when Sacagawea starts seeing familiar landmarks. Scouting ahead, Lewis crosses the Continental Divide and meets the Shoshone. Meanwhile, Clark and the boats reach the end of the navigable river.

     

    Down the Western Valleys

    Lemhi and Bitterroot valleys

    Aided by the Lemhi Shoshone Chief Cameahwait, Sacagawea’s brother, they begin a slow process to acquire horses, move necessary equipment and supplies across Lemhi Pass, and to cache the rest. They stumble across the Lost Trail divide, buy more horses from the Flathead Salish, and proceed down the Bitterroot River to Travelers’ Rest.

     

    Over the Bitterroots

    K’useyneiskit along the Lolo Trail

    With Toby as their guide, the expedition leaves Travelers’ Rest and crosses the Bitterroot Mountains following an Indian road known today as the Lolo Trail. They encounter winter conditions and suffer from a lack of food. On the other side, Nez Perces at Weippe Prairie welcome the weary travelers.

     

    Among the Nez Perce

    Clearwater and Snake rivers

    Tired and physically sick, the travelers recover and those who can, work to build five dugout canoes at camp on the Clearwater River. With no time for portages and despite the help of two Nez Perce river guides, several canoe accidents happen while negotiating rapids on the Clearwater and lower Snake.

     

    Down the Columbia

    Washington and Oregon

    The best paddlers steer through The Dalles and Cascades of the Columbia without incident, and they all continue downriver passing numerous Lower Chinookan villages. After three weeks hunkering down in dismal nitches and bays, they cross to the southern shore and encamp at Tongue Point.

     

    Winter at Fort Clatsop

    December 1805 to March 1806

    During their stay at the Pacific coast, they hunt elk, make salt at the beach, and buy fish, wapato, and conical hats from the Clatsops and Kathlamets. When Clark leaves to get blubber from a beached whale, Sacagawea—who still hasn’t seen the ocean—insists she be included in his group. In the spring, they are eager to leave.

     

    Return to the Clearwater

    Fort Clatsop to Long Camp

    On their way up the Columbia River, they stop to hunt and dry meat, and to investigate the Willamette and Sandy rivers. Canoes are eventually traded or abandoned by the time they reach the Walla Walla River, they travel by horse to the Snake River. They encamp for several weeks waiting for mountain snows to melt.

     

    Clark on the Yellowstone

    Travelers' Rest to North Dakota

    Clark leads a large group from Travelers’ Rest to the Beaverhead River where supplies and canoes are cached. Ordway takes the canoes to the Falls of the Missouri and Clark’s group paddles the Yellowstone in two small canoes lashed together. Pryor’s group must use bull boats after all the horses are stolen by Crows.

     

    Lewis on the Marias

    Cut Bank Creek to North Dakota

    With only three others, Lewis continues his June 1805 exploration of the Marias River hoping to find its source north of the 50th parallel. They find that it flows south of the 49th. Heading back, they come across a small group of young Blackfeet, and the encounter turns fatal. Both groups flee.

     

    The Final Leg

    Reunion Bay to St. Louis

    Leaving Reunion Bay, the members travel together for the first time since Travelers’ Rest. They drop off the Charbonneau family at their village and pick up Chief Sheheke and interpreter René Jusseaume. The citizens of St. Louis, having given them up for dead, provide a boisterous welcome.

     

Discover More

  • The Lewis and Clark Expedition: Day by Day by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2018). The story in prose, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals: An American Epic of Discovery (abridged) by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 2003). Selected journal excerpts, 14 May 1804–23 September 1806.
  • The Lewis and Clark Journals. by Gary E. Moulton (University of Nebraska Press, 1983–2001). The complete story in 13 volumes.